Originally established in the 1860s by one of Melbourne's founding fathers, James Johnston, Craiglee Vineyard was absent from the Australian wine landscape until it was replanted in 1976 by an enthusiastic agricultural science graduate called Pat Carmody. Now one of Australia's most highly regarded and awarded wineries, Craiglee is still run with the loving attention of Pat and Dianne Carmody with the occasional input of their sons.

The 2017 Reserve Shiraz was drawn from three barriques from the original vineyard that were chosen for their roundness of flavour, balance and fine integration of oak. The Reserve represents the finest expression of the Craiglee Shiraz for each year.

The best 3 barrels of the vintage make the Reserve. This is all gloss and glorious. Full bodied, with dark fruits and spiced to the max with a grind of black pepper and cedary oak doing its bit, both structurally and flavour-wise. Tannins are supple and fine. There’s no shortage of flavour, yet this retains a certain elegance. Drink to: 2040; Alcohol: 13.5%; Rating: 96 Points; Jane Faulkner; James Halliday Wine Companion